Volume No. 2 Issue No. 42 - Monday June 9, 2008
Dominica offers an ecological escape from the everyday
 Lauren Viera - Chicago Tribune (http://www.chicagotribune.com)
The White River, one of Dominica's 365 rivers, is enriched with sulfur from volcanic springs, making for a refreshing open-air bath. (Tribune photo by Lauren Viera / May 27, 2008)
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If the first rule in Dominica is Always Wear Your Swimsuit, the second should be, Always Bring Your Snorkeling Gear.
On my last day here, I went down to Soufriere Bay off Scotts Head for one last chance to swim in that amazingly warm water and to take in the southernmost point of the island, where the second and third "Pirates of the Caribbean" movies were filmed. As soon as I waded out to my waist, some kind of giant beautiful aqua-colored ray floated by, and a million little yellow and black fish fluttered around my bare feet.
There had been other snorkeling experiences on Dominica�the most spectacular was farther up Soufriere Bay at Champagne Reef, named for the underwater bubbles produced by small volcanic fissures leaking from the ocean bed. But that calm, quiet, overcast day on Scotts Head was just as special.
Afterward, bumping along that twisty, windy road one last time for the 21/2-hour trek up the side of the island to the airport, driving was the easy part.
The hard part? Leaving.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Dominica is in the center of the Lesser Antilles in the West Indies, between the islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. There are no non-stop flights from Chicago�only connecting flights from major islands in the vicinity, including Puerto Rico; and Barbados. Dominica has two (very) small airports: Melville Hall Airport in the northeast, about 90 minutes from the capital of Roseau, and Canefield Airport in the southwest, just north of Roseau. Major flights fly to and from Melville Hall but only during daylight hours, as the airfield has no lights. Mid-July round-trip flights on a single carrier run about $900 from O'Hare; cheaper travel can be had by booking from O'Hare to a major destination in the West Indies (like Barbados or Puerto Rico), plus a connecting flight on Liat, the Caribbean airline.
GETTING AROUND
Dominica is rugged, rough and rainy. Much of it is walkable�and hikeable�but getting from place to place requires ground transportation. Driving on the island isn't easy, but it also isn't impossible. If you rent a car, opt for a Jeep or similar all-terrain vehicle that can handle potholes, steep terrain and the occasional unpaved road. Follow the four rules posted in rental cars here�"KEEP LEFT, USE HORN LIBERALLY, USE LOWER GEAR ON HILLS, DRIVE CAREFULLY"�and you'll be fine. Taxis are available for hire, and there is a fairly efficient island-wide bus system that services most major landmarks and is a cheap and easy way to do some sightseeing. Additionally, most larger inns and hotels offer airport transfers for a fee.
STAYING THERE
There are no commercial hotel chains on the island, which, for most of the people who come here, is a relief. Most inns and resorts (none of which resemble stereotypical Caribbean resorts) offer meal and excursion packages, since cross-island transportation is limited. Because Roseau and most adventure destinations are on the southern half of the island, staying in the south is preferable.
Jungle Bay Resort and Spa (767-446-1789; www.junglebaydominica.com), off Pointe Mulatre Bay on the southeast side, is a phenomenal eco-friendly resort consisting of modern, treehouse-like cottages with quaint outdoor showers, comfortable beds and spectacular ocean or jungle views. The best deal is the Jungle Spa Adventure Package (from $209 per night, three-night minimum required), which includes airport transfers, meals at the organic Jungle Pavilion restaurant, daily scheduled hikes and activities, yoga and meditation classes, and daily half-hour spa treatments (the coconut oil-infused Jungle Bay massage is a godsend after long hikes). Regular rates, with breakfast included, start at $169 per night. Plan to get a workout during your stay: Most cottages are about 100 steps above ground.
A lovely, smaller alternative is Zandolli Inn (767-446-3161; www.zandoli.com ), near Grand Bay on the south side. There are five rooms (starting at $135/night), and breakfast and dinner�a satisfying, four-course affair combining local and international dishes�are optional. The inn's best feature is its location overlooking the bay: There's a private trail down to a natural pile of huge, smooth boulders that slip into the ocean�the perfect launching pad for swimming and snorkeling.
DINING THERE
Several nice dining options are attached to lodging. Jungle Bay's Jungle Pavilion restaurant (767-446-1789; www.junglebay dominica.com; average entree $25) serves local seafood and poultry entrees but no red meat. Everything is organic; most everything is delicious. At breakfast, spread some banana mustard on a locally grown pumpkin muffin; for dinner, fresh catches are just that�caught via the fishing boats (likely off the coast of Grand Bay) that morning. Frequented by locals and tourists alike, La Robe Creole (767-448-2896; www.larobecreole.com; average entree $25), in Roseau, serves Creole-inspired local dishes such as coconut-curry shrimp and fish balls, the staple Dominican appetizer. More casual is Cocorico (767-449-8686; www.natureisle.com/cocorico; average entree $12), a French-Caribbean bistro on Roseau's bayfront, which makes it popular with the cruise crowd during port season. French crepes, sausages and cheese�which is scarce elsewhere on the island�are its delicacies of choice.
WHAT TO DO
Hiking, snorkeling, diving, kayaking and swimming are all popular here; sunbathing isn't. Well-known hikes include Trafalgar Falls (an easy 10 minutes each way), Emerald Pool (an easy 15 minutes each way, with vistas of the valley below), Sari Sari Falls (a moderate 30 minutes each way), Victoria Falls (a moderate 45-60 minutes each way, with a guide); and, for more experienced hikers, Boiling Lake (a strenuous 6 hours each way, with a guide) and Morne Diablotin (a strenuous and difficult 8-hour round trip, with a guide). The most popular snorkeling and diving spots are at Champagne near Soufriere Bay, named for its bubbly water produced by underwater volcanic activity; and Scotts Head, with its surprisingly clear, calm waters. Kayaking is common in the many bays surrounding the island. As for swimming, it's done everywhere and anywhere (natural pools, rivers, lakes, hot springs, ocean bays, etc.), so remember the rule: Always wear your swimsuit.
INFORMATION
Official Dominica tourism information: 866-522-4057; www.dominica.dm
�Lauren Viera
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