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Volume No. 2 Issue No. 52 - Monday September 2, 2008
Diving Dominica
By Kelly Saunders - JPG Magazine


coral reefs
Some of the spectacular coral reefs in the waters of Dominica.
Dominica (pronounced Dom-in-ee-ka) is situated between Guadeloupe and Martinique in the Lesser Antilles of the Caribbean, with the rocky Atlantic Ocean on one side and the calming Caribbean on the other.

A former colony of the United Kingdom, Dominica is now an independent country, gaining its independence from Britain in November of 1978.

You will still notice the Queen's picture on the Eastern Caribbean (EC) money used because circulating new currency would be too costly.

Once you arrive, there is a little bit of a drive to get to Roseau, and I say that playfully. There is about a two-hour drive down a winding, rocky mountain road through the depths of the rain forest with deep ravines that you will be peering into.

Not to worry � the drivers are highly skilled in this area. Also, make sure your luggage is tagged properly before checking it in because they don't make much of an effort to locate your bags in Antigua (which is probably going to be your layover route).

Always pack items, such as your mask, regulator and computer, in your carry-on just in case you happen to be as fortunate as I was to lose your luggage. You can rent the rest of the gear at your lodge if something happens.

Dominica is surrounded by lush, tropical rainforest just begging to be explored and teaming with wildlife of all kinds. The nature hikes are fascinating � there are over 350 rivers and streams winding their way through ravines and gorges to cascade over countless waterfalls.

You can easily get to places such as Emerald Pool, Trafalgar Falls, Titou Gorge and the Aerial Tram or be adventurous and attempt the Boiling Lake, accessible after a four to five hour trek through the mud.

Whale watching is also an option. Dominica is known for its frequent sightings of Spinner and Spotted Dolphins, Pilot Whales, Sperm Whales and False Orcas and guarantees a 90% chance of seeing one of these amazing creatures.

Day trips to neighboring Martinique, St. Lucia and Guadeloupe are available through ferries and airplane tours. It is helpful to get the ferry schedule from the resort beforehand. And if that is not enough, there is biking and kayaking as well.

But most importantly, I was there for the diving. There is a lot to explore underwater; dramatic reef walls that plunge down to 1,000 feet (300m), pristine coral reefs, pinnacle dives, orange and yellow sponges abound.

There is no shortage of tropical fish including, black bar soldier fish, squirrel fish, trumpet fish, porcupine fish and an abundance of pederson shrimp, arrow crabs, banded shrimp and squid, as well as moray eels, squid, squirrel fish, blue tang and turtles galore. We spotted a few bat fish and octopus on many shore dives as well.

There are many fascinating dive sites to investigate and explore. Champaign Reef, an underwater hot spring, was hands down my favorite. Warm streams of tiny air bubbles pop up everywhere and there are slick, algae covered rocks with plenty of macro life, such as anemones, crinoids and neon crab, hiding in the crevices.

There is no current at the site and gives you a great opportunity to practice your buoyancy. Great photo op if you have a macro setting on your camera.

There is also a 250 year old wreck that wades in 18 feet of deep blue water, which makes it easy to snorkel or free dive to this particular wreck.

Scott's Head & Scott's Head Point are two other sites that stood out amongst the others. Beautiful multi-colored sponges abound here and breathtaking photographs are the result. This is also a Marine Sanctuary that covers the area from Soufri�re up to Anse Bateau, close to the town of Pointe Michel.

If you are an avid photographer, I would strongly suggest bringing a strobe to Dominica to illuminate your photographs. There are beautiful colors on the reefs, but depending on the weather, you might not get as much sunlight to enhance these colors as you might like. It is in fact a rain forest and rains approximately three to four times a day, so having the extra light underwater will help bring your photographs to life.

Non-divers should know that many of the activities on the island are geared towards divers or adventure seekers. There isn't much to do if you are the casino, resorty type of traveler.

There aren't many sandy beaches in the Roseau/Soufriere area either and pools are a must in the heat, so plan accordingly. However, there are two beaches, one black sand and one white sand, on the North end of the island.

We dove with Castle Comfort Dive Lodge located one mile South of Roseau near Soufriere. Upon arrival at this quaint lodge you are greeted with a complimentary rum punch from the gracious staff.

You can also request a Pina-Colada blended with a slice of banana (my personal concoction), mud slide or a Strawberry Dacari. The Caribs also have their own blend of aged rum with cinnamon, roots and spices that makes quite a potent aphrodisiac. All of which are refreshing and delectable.

Castle Comfort is owned by a friendly group of Creole (kw�y�l) speaking locals who are very accommodating. They were so especially in locating my misplaced luggage! It is one of the smaller resorts (only 15 rooms) on the island, which makes the experience intimate and builds lasting friendships.

Castle Comfort is beautifully located, directly on the edge of the ocean with the green hills of Dominica sitting at her back. Their dive operation is run smoothly and Divemasters Reggie and Curt are fantastic.

They offer a range of scuba courses, snorkeling opportunities, unlimited short diving and many excursions. Nitrox is also available but be sure to find out the cost before you go. It can get quite expensive per tank fill.

Also, as a cautionary note, there is no decompression chamber in Dominica. The closest is in Martinique which isn't too far away, but something to be aware of when you are planning your trip.

You can also stay next door at Anchorage or stay in town at the Fort Young Hotel, which does not offer diving but has incredible views of the mountain peaks. Regardless of where you stay, Roseau town is the hub of Dominica.

It takes $1.50EC, which is about US$0.50, to get to there by bus and is one mile away from Castle Comfort if you are up for a brisk walk.

The Green Flash Restaurant is located down the road from the Castle Comfort and offers live music and great food. It is an open-air restaurant offering nice views of the mountains and sea.

It is difficult to predict when the absolute best time to visit Dominica is because of the varying temperatures and rain fall. I have found that June through August is pleasant, expect rain several times and day and bring the proper gear.

Most of the shops and restaurants are operational during the week except Sunday when the only thing open is the market. When the cruise ships dock on Tuesday everything is open and you will notice many street performers at that time.

Dominica was fortunate enough to be one of the filming locations for the Pirates of the Caribbean II & III: "Dead Man's Chest."

Approximately 1,700 people showed up for the casting calls hoping to be a Hollywood star or at least a movie extra. This was a great island to film this particular movie because it also had its share of pirates with their forbidden treasure.

In 1567 vessels of a Spanish fleet wrecked on the Northwest tip of the island. It is said that they carried over two million in Spanish gold and the survivors were captured and eaten by cannibals. This treasure is yet to be discovered in the many caves and caverns located on the island.

There are at present no direct international flights to Dominica but there are several international gateways nearby: Antigua, Barbados, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Puerto Rico, St. Lucia and St. Maarten connect you from destinations in North America, Europe and the Caribbean.

You can reach Dominica by LIAT, Caribbean Star, Air Guadeloupe and American Eagle from these International Gateways and if staying in Guadeloupe, Martinique or St.Lucia you can also catch the L'Express ferry to Dominica.

For any additional information on what you have read, please visit the following sites for more information: www.dominica.dm
www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com
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